#GOODEATS: BAGATELLE, NY

Spend a few zeros on a jeroboam of Veuve Clicquot and some magnums of Dom Pérignon, and the lights dim, the D.J. cues up the theme from “Superman,” and a waiter is hoisted onto the shoulders of his fellow servers. With a tablecloth knotted around his neck as a makeshift cape and his arms outstretched, he carries one of the blazing bottles of bubbly to your table.

As the waiter soars through the air, he does so against a backdrop of patrons fist-pumping Champagne flutes, flashing cameras capturing pictures ripe for Facebook and a dozen young women clad in sequins, stilettos and Chanel bags climbing onto chairs, banquettes, even tables — any elevated surface that is sturdy enough to dance on.

Just why so many people choose to throw an extravagant party on a Saturday afternoon may be less surprising than how they could afford to do so, given the country’s economic woes. The absence of a velvet rope outside Bagatelle does not signal a lack of exclusivity; patrons must know the cellphone number of one of the owners to get a reservation.

Here are the dishes you absolutely cannot miss:

  • Dos De Cabillaud Poêlé – pan seared black cod fillet, braised baby artichokes barigoule, basil pesto emulsion
  • Canard À L’orange Et Citronnelle – pan seared marinated hudson valley duck breast, citrus scented rice cakes, ginger & celery rémoulade, a l’orange & lemongrass sauce
  • Poulet Fermier Rôti Et Truffé – truffled roasted chicken, country style potatoes, chicken jus
  • Mousse au Chocolat Noir – dark chocolate mouse, candied grapefruit rind, almond tuile